Thom Browne

Everyone heard the rumours about Thom Browne going bankrupt. With a cash infusion from Cross Company of Japan, Thom Browne has returned to form as a showman. He created a hushed and nervous atmosphere in the opulent salons of the Park Avenue Armory. The New York City designer became famous for shrunken clothing, but now the scale of his designs is as apt to be hulking. In fact, the tailoring covered all possible dimensions -short, long, wide, tight, etc. Cropped trousers were wide, varsity jackets elongated, a gym bag laughably commodious. Everything from Thom Browne's signature flannel suits and overcoats to chunky ski-lodge sweaters to more ballroom touches, like white-striped opera pumps. And all presented with an irreverent sense of humor that makes the man's shows artistic events : priestly flannel stoles brush up against tightly-corseted coats, hot-pink gloves, and oversize logos on elbow- and knee-patches. It's a place where the playful innocence of childhood makes peace with the solemn majesty of being a man. Regardless of its dimensions, every piece was dripping in Thom Browne’s signature details, which now include chunky plastic zippers, a TB logo and a red, white and blue braid. But the most outrageous part ? It’s a toss-up between the use of raccoon tails as decorative fringe, or the gender-bending dresses, muffs and pink gloves. Or have it both ways -a pillbox hat with a tail.