Richard Chai

Looking over Richard Chai's fifth collection at the helm of his namesake brand, a few words immediately spring to mind : experimental, ethereal and, for lack of a better one, European. But Mr Chai is very much an American in his focus on function, and whether he's playing around with mineral and enzyme washes on his durable polo-shirts (part of a new collaboration with Original Penguin) or testing the boundaries of knitwear (see-through and sleeveless in many cases) or pairing military-and-safari-inspired gear with lightweight city tailoring, he's interested in how clothes perform in the real world. That they happen to catch people's attention -well, so much the better. No one could ever accuse the Richard Chai man of being precious or soft-edged. In his sleeveless parka, combat boots and metal-studded pants, he'd beat you up before you got the chance. Richard Chai's clothes this season made heavy reference to military classics, mixing elements like a mesh olive shirt and man-sandals with wrinkled gray pants in his signature fit -roomy above the knee while tapered below. The result was clothes for a fashion-minded guy on the front lines -ready to do battle and taking shit from no one. This collection felt like a natural exercise for Mr Chai, whose aesthetics tends to work best with sporty urban references and those signature eclectic wearable separates that can be depended upon season after season. Which is exactly why this collection must have thrilled so many of the buyers in attendance : this men's line is always built to sell. If the non-fashiony male shopper can't be convinced of his pastel printed pants (and actually, in a pajama-like blue stripe, these weren't too daunting as far as printed pants go), they will find plenty to love in the colorful utility jackets, slim cut blazers, preppy pullovers and parachute vests. The judicious use of accessories, like the occasional floppy bucket hat or long-brimmed baseball cap, gave the collection a cool 90s era hip-hop vibe that will no doubt translate on the sales floor. Perfect casualwear in any circumstances.